The interior of Zakuro, an Iranian restaurant near Nishi Nippori, is completely covered in carpets--stacks of Persian carpets fill an alcove; a thick layer of them blankets the floor. Even the walls sport carpets worked with figures of women and tigers.

Iranian foods are similar to other Middle Eastern cuisines but with several different spices, including a flaky, bitter, burgundy powder for grilled meat. I couldn't identify it beyond perhaps the dried skin of a fruit. Curried and stewed dishes, basmati rice, flatbread, nuts and pickles rounded out our meal.

But the experience to remember was fruit flavored tabacco in hooka pipes. I tried it and enjoyed the sweet apple scented smoke. Tod had cherry tobacco which was also delicious. The headache and sore throat afterwards (I'm not a smoker) wasn't so fun, but the initial experience was memorable.